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1)Heads are stripped of all
parts including rocker studs
and any plugs. |
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2)They
are then put into our oven
and cooked at 700 degrees
for 7 hours. The side
benefit of this is that the
head is allowed to cool
evenly and this relieves
stress on the head. |
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3)They
are then put into our
Peterson Steel Shot Blaster
to remove any rust and dirt. |
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4)Next
we Magna-Flux the heads on
all 4 sides. |
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5)Then
each head is Pressure Tested
for any type of leak. |
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6)Our
next step is to repair any
broken bolts and bolt holes
using the Engine Tech Time
Certs process. I believe
that this is a far better
way to repair a bad thread
hole than using the heila
coil system. |
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7)Next
the heads are fitted with
New Rocker Studs or Screw In
Studs for the heads that use
them. |
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8)Then
we install New K-Line Bronze
Guide Liners or in the case
of the guides being too bad
to repair, we will install
solid bronze guides.
Whatever guide that is
installed, you can be sure
that they will be all the
same through both heads.
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9)We
then hone the guides on our
Sunnen Diamond Honing Stand
to give you a consitent
finish and guide clearance
in both heads. There is no
other honing system that can
give you such precision.
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10)We
then move our heads to our
Kwik Way Seat and Guide
Machine to install the
hardened exhaust seats or
any other seat that needs to
be replaced. Our process of
installing seats is top in
the market. We do not just
cut the seat for the inserts
but we also make sure that
there is no over hang from
the casting to the seat. We
take a seat that we are
using and cut it in half so
we can test fit it for over
hang before being installed.
By doing it this way it
insures that your head will
flow as well as it did from
the factory or better.
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11)Our
next step is to cut the 3
angle valve job and maintain
equal valve stem heights,
±.005 tolerance. We do it
this way to insure that your
valve train geometry will be
the same as the factory
produced. We also use an
accentric gauge to insure
that the seat run-out is
within factory
specificationos and we also
use a vacuum gauge to double
check to make sure the seats
and valves will seal. We
check them with the springs
off because it is a better
indicator of how good the
valve job is. We also look
at the rate the vacuum gauge
pulls a vacuum, and this
also is a good indicator of
how well the valves seal. |
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12)We
then cut the head for a
postive type seal. We
believe this is a better way
of controlling the oil using
a seal of this type instead
of it just floating on the
valve stem. |
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13)The
next step is to put the
heads on our Peterson CBN
milling machine. The set up
process we employ on all our
heads is to not rely on a
level to setup the head for
milling but to use a dial
indicator mounted on the
milling head, indicating the
head to within .001" front
to back and left to right.
This ensures that we are
removing the least amount of
material as possible from
the heads. Also we may do
the intake side and exhaust
side to ensure good sealing.
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14)Next we use a thread
chasing tap and go through
every bolt hole in the heads
to ensure a trouble free
install. |
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15)They are then hand washed
with hot soap and water to
give you a nice clean head.
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16)The
heads are then inspected for
one last time and we then
install the new parts. Also
at this time we fill out a
specification card for the
heads. This is provided to
you and a copy is kept on
file at our shop. |
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17)The
heads are then stamped on
the back of the head, not
showing in the front, with a
date and serial number.
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18)The
next step is to tape the
head off and paint it to the
factory color using Pionneer
paint. The paint is
available at our cost to you
to complete your engine.
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19) We
then vacuum check the heads
one last time to insure good
valve seal. |
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20)The
deck surface is then taped
off to keep it from getting
scratched during packaging
and shipping. Any masking
tape residue is easly
removed by using lacquer
thinner. |
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